tv [untitled] December 3, 2013 7:30pm-8:01pm PST
it was during those years the so-called bully eye. an oval pie. this was he successfully he adapted their covered with the bully eyes all over. you find the most active featured on rings, restorations and bracelets. and it continues to be interpreted in different ways nowadays. interestingly most is a was are convertible and worn as a broach as you see here. others can be divided and the different sections were worn separately. sometimes a shorter necklace or
as bracelets. now during the 70s many are whim u whimsical. at times they were independent to concepts namely that of evaluating common jewels and here you find playing cards that become precious jewels and a here judges a simple card becomes a fantastic pen let in gold and mother of parallel and the can what is the mother of parallel on index and diamonds. on others occasions ice cream cones become elevated to the
status of a brochure or a mothering sticking stick maybe made in gold or the hammer imperfect working made of white and a gold or a cigarette case modeled as a cigarette box. and bug u bullries answer to annie arrest warrant hauls tin campbell so i happen was a wonderful silver and gold tennis bail canister. among the jewels of the 1970s of the created by the third young and sort of great bully generation one finds the so-called spaniel stars and
stripes. now those jewels and object you can see the wonderful alarm clock or table clock quote elements from the american flag. now in her opinion introduced at the time of the 18 of the first time bugging bully store of the united states that was opened in 1972 it was not only the first store in the under the circumstances u.s. but of bully abroad since the 1920s. now those hip jewels found favor in particular in the years leadership up to the celebrations of the american bicentennial of the 1976. it was under the third-generation or the third coincide jewels gained momentum.
now coin jewels are not a novelty. that is to say when you find a coin as a centerpiece of a jewel. now this jeweler dates back many centuries and here you see pictured for example, a late he roman coin jewels you'll see in the british museum that dates to the late 19th century, 1970s that was created by the jewelers family jewelers in he rome. now this is just to show you that coins have long been used in jewelers for many centuries it was really bully that revived
them in the 20 sit up. they range in ancient coins with the greek coins that dates to the fourth century b.c. to the wonderful broach dating to the 1970s set with a rare american dollar dating to 1926. so the range is extremely broad. possibly one of my favorite is this rather extreme example it is a incredibly large ca is a what it's a hundred and 40 centimeters long and weighs two pound and is set with 15 comes in and they're all british coins. silver british coins with the
heads of the heads of state starting with henry the eight and finishing with johnson the third. so it's like a history lesson of british history. it was bought by a very extravagance clerk for his wife barney baron richie and it has a italian descendent. here's him and his wife at acting pock. now as this particular one divides into 3 sections. you can wear it as a short necklace as a chokerer or as a bracelet so one jewel goes a long way. it's interesting to see the relationship between jewels and
other art forms. and for example here i know that if one looks if one questions why bully coin jewels so successful at the time i think they embrace the spirit of the moment and not surprisingly the success of counsel jewels was with the post modern architecture. and interesting both reference the past in a modern structure in a similar way and you can go precious this by comparing this sleek modern brass les let with 3 bronze rosen coins. their famous with you the at&t building by architect phillip
johnson in manhattan whereby the skyscraper ends with a reference to a classic greek. so inserting the reference of the past in sleek modern sooebts. now the gas setting is something that bully did frequently to mount coins. and here's another wonderful example a fine choker mounted with 3 ancient greek coins dating to the forget century b.c. mounted in this very sleek more than setting. and two both gas is not an invention it was use in the
jeweler as far back as the 9 century but bully used it in wrist watches. how to make the to both gas it's a tubular chain which is made with no filter at all. here's some ages they're made by hand and you wrap those gold strips have little ridges at the side and they're wrapped around a core. first one is wrapped around with all the little sides facing upwards and the second, the second strip is wrapped around and finally the core is removed
and what you're left with is that wonderful flexible chain that's made tubular chain that's made with no solder so it's made with a buff effect and labor intensive. another motive that goes back a long way but which was arrived in an interesting fashion by the buggery is the serpent motive. now serpents have long been used in juvenile and here you see a set of 3 radiology bracelets dating to the first century a.d. just to give you an idea of how
fashionable they were a wonderful incidental in the getting i didn't museum you can see at the tomb stone and the lady is wearing i believe if we can count them 1, 2, 3, 4 snake bracelets all in one go. this give us an idea that snake bracelets are no novelty but burgery reinterpreted this in a successful way. how did they do that buggery combined it with is watch. we find two versions of serpent snake watches. the first a stylized where the dial suggests the head of the serpent. the others a more naturally render.
the enamel their gold and e immediately and you can see each scale is e in addition, and it's under the hinged head. often the enamel is famines full in color other times it replicates the skin of real snakes. in those are two wonderful examples but in this exhibition we'll see some of the rare bracelet watches. here you see one pictured here is not an enamel it's in coral. so you can imagine how skillful and labor intensive is needs to be produced to have all those
the scales individually carved out of coral and it's like a pail pink and it has those beautiful green emerald eyes. another rather exceptional versus is gold and platinum and diamond watch. it's particularly ideal to the one this elizabeth taylor was wearing while filming cleopatra in rome. this is elizabeth taylor. and you'll notice is that the body of this one this one is even grander the one that elizabeth taylor it has an extra
coil. and finally an exceptional piece another of those wonderful serpent watches and this instance it's gold, diamond platinum and you can notice on the head a very large burmese rube i didn't. i'm showing you here how it would be presented in emphasis original case and how you can open the head to reveal the dial as in this case you can see surround by brilliant diamonds >> now incessantly it varies it was when bully was not involved in watch manning making so they were in top movements they vary.
those are the ones that you find. and it's really i think wonderful to be able to see for the first time ever those 3 exceptional serpent watches which is really thanks to the generosity of a prominent california for an private collector has left them for the benefit of us to see. now moving in the 1980s it was the time when the bullyingy style came into its own the bold round shapes it was no coincidence when andy said well, i think you've jeweler is the
80s everybody is trying to copy this look. now buggingries jewels are bold in dimension and in color combination but at the same time their wear able to wear for the active woman dressed in the power suit of the time. which you can see here. now, it's not surprisingly that the necklace wearing ability is a key element of the buggery of the decade it's the belief it should be one or more for all occasions from a bowl to a picnic and when i mentioned to
someone from the press they said i want to go to some of the picnics (laughter) >> buggery mixed precious elements and also created modular jeweler. now the first mod letter line was the par is he it consists of a pattern of style life break the. italian brake detectives. now those are all cast and individually hand finished and assembly. by changing the combination you can mix plain gold with diamonds u.s. as you can see here or other times mix gold with steel or you can really alter the look of the piece and have a various
price change. so there of the also a number of superb dines as you know color is typical of the dine and roundness. for example, gems of extremely high value i see those larger columbiana emeralds are mounted next to a.m. sister and bus topped calibrated rube i didn't see. so once in a while color, rounded shapes and mixing gemstones regardless of the individual intrinsic value.
and so by so doing they create the jewels that are chafshgd as a casual formality which in my view is the essence of italian style at large. now finally, i'd like to end this talk by showing you the jewels of elizabeth taylor. now day. elizabeth had a passion for collecting jewels and husbands. (laughter) >> now the jewels you'll see in the exhibition are mainly the gift from here fourth husbands east i didn't fishing and 5th and 6 accounting husband richard burton. they were worn extensive by the elizabeth taylor on the gene and
in really life human resources she got from east i didn't fishing you see was mounted in platinum with emerald and diamonds. the second if a blossom you'll see in the explicit inhibition is mound is colonels diamonds of different shades. as it was given by the east i didn't fisher in february 1962 for her birthday. they were part of a set at his last attempt from keeping his wife from running away with rendering burton arrest now in the x you'll see a small emerald or relatively small 7 carrots
emeralds that was the first emerald and diamond ring which was the first jewel she received from burton. sprirlsz she never regarded it as american people engagement gift it was a spectacular broach set with an emerald of 23.44 carrots in a surround of diamonds she received it on the set of cle past. now she was to off the top of my head of this broach she wore is and it appears in the film of vi public works. she we're to together with a flame blue in her head with the film for the vipz and on her wedding do i day on her first
wedding in 1964 with richard burton arrest and as a wekd gift he gave her a neck last. it is amazing elizabeth taylor has worn this particular necklace xooefk throughout they are life and on any specific occasions. for example, she wore the necklace when she received the oscar for whose front yard of virginia wolf and when she was introduced to queen elizabeth the second and in her swimming pool (laughter) >> now another spectacular
gave the was this wonderful pie from richard burton in 17972 as a 40th birthday gift and she received of the matching ring. and i think it is really one of the most spectacular pieces. it is set at the center with a have a very, very fine burr messes safe first of 75 carrots and it is from bury. it has a rounded effect and its nuclear because as i mentioned to you buggery tended to always use yellow gold from the 60s onward for high-end jewel and this is the only one that is
platinum that i know of so it's a rare example and nonetheless very fine jewel. you can see here wearing it doubled up around here next for her at her 40 accounting birthday. it is a great advantage being a occur rapport of the bigy collection because i get the opportunity to examine those wonderful jewels very closely and i have to confess cerebral to try them on (laughter) now the taylor collection wouldn't be complete without the ironic coin jewels pr on the day she 2345u7b9d here the amendment to john warren she was wearing
this dynamic. and finally another interesting piece in the taylor collections you'll see upstairs is this usually hand anywhere which she received for filming clep past and it was made by burry in 1972, however, who was the donor to pay the homage of the queen of the in this trial is a mystery but i hope we'll meet again and i'll be able to tell you the end of the story once i've been able to do the research. i hope i've been able to demonstrate the bury gem
collections from the 1960s to the 1980s. buggery has been able to respond time and time again yet remains true to itself. which i believe is one of the best things faced by all artists. although the timeframe of the x inhibition ends in 1990 bully has continued into the 15 of not 2009 generally lent to this exhilaration by another california for an collector. the overall xylophone is very different from the bold pieces we saw in the 1980s bus it's
still buggery. look at the fine deep blue safe fire and erroneously i didn't red coral and for the mixing of different levels of value the intrinsicly sapphire and the less costly coral. the buggery ingredients are all there but we worked again in a creative and inventive way. thank you hmm. [cell phone beeps]